Materials / Sustainability.

Shoe Recipe

Leather

Leather and the tanning process has a bad name for pollutants and ecology however

Switch to veg tan or natural tannin such as oak bark which takes longer but when it breaks down does not release nasty chemicals in environment. Does need more care and upkeep. Gets better with age rather than deteriorates, patina patina.

All leather made from by product of meat industry, so while that happens it is better to use all the animal and leather has such amazing natural properties.

UK tanneries are held to such high standards of clean water and pollution that they are one of the most monitored industries which means both a very traceable environmental impact but also a very low one.

Glue

When I first started out on my footwear design degree course over 10years ago now (time flys) and my subsequent time in the industry have always been potent. To the point that at university we had a ‘glue room’ the only place you were allowed to glue. This had many extractors as the glues give off very strong fumes due to the glues being such strong solvents. Since then workshops and studios I’ve been to would have different extraction systems to remove the fumes from the air as very bad for human inhalation. All glues came in metal container with many hazardous and warning symbols on the packaging.

Two types of glue I would typically use. Rubber solution for holding uppers together before stitching. And neoprene contact glue for ‘cementing’ soles one.

I have dodgy lungs which developed as a child. To the point where in this current situation I’m in the ‘clinically extremely vulnerable’ category in the current pandemic and have had to shield a lot in the last year. So considering this and that the glues are already very bad, this is the big one to change from the beginning.

Rubber solution

The glue I use when making complicated and intricate uppers has been an easier this to change and source. As this only has to hold my leather until I can put it together and stitch it. In the last few years, inspired by colleges I have changed over to a water based PVA leather glue which works well. The immediate environmental change is noticeable as I can open the glue jar and smell nothing, I don’t need to keep the lid on between uses as it doesn’t quickly evaporate into the atmosphere. And the need for all windows open while is use is not there. A win especially in the winter. So great, a win.

Neoprene/contact lasting glue- This is an altogether different beast. To start with, lasting has not been my area of specialism so although I have some experience, it is less and mainly self-taught. And more importantly shoes are practical, a ‘working’ item in our wardrobe and need to withstand a fair amount of kicking.

The way a contact glue works is that it is painted on both pieces that are to be stuck together and then left to dry. It is then heated to activate it and put together and this bonds it. (sorry that wasn’t the most scientific description but the in practice one, message me if you’d like a more in detailed description.) But once this bond is made, water cannot get in and it is definitely not water soluble. It forms a very strong bond, which is what you need to keep the sole on your shoes.

The main sole attaching methods

Stitched Welted (more common in men’s shoes or study work wear) and stitch downs.

Cemented Glued, most ladies shoes especially high heels. You also get faux welted where a pre stitched welt is glued on to give an impression of welted.

Injection molded- for example in sports shoes. The uppers are lasted then placed into the sole molds which are injected with the molten soles which when cooled form a bond with the shoe upper. (They can also be molded separately then just glued on)

Stapled/nailed- In the case of clogs (I have some experience in clog making as well) or wooden soled shoes where the upper is nailed or tacked to the base, soaked and the last pushed in forming a wet molded upper.

So back to glue, finding a glue that was not a solvent but can withstand the conditions a shoe goes through is taking time. I’m currently using a water based contact glue (you use on both pieces and it forms a bond with itself) and trying to put it through its paces but this may or may not be as strong and long lasting as the Neoprene. The question will be ‘Is it worth the environmental cost to consumers to spend more time and potentially money on upkeep? I feel it will be a journey of education for both makers and consumers to find the balance. But also very clever people are applying themselves to this conundrum and new environmentally friendly glue products are emerging which I am seeking to test. It’s a process.

Takes a breath as that was really long

Thread

For hand stitching a use linen threads, either pre waxed and dyed or natural and I can wax and dye them myself.

My machine threads are somewhat different. They have many years of Tech and development in them to produce strong and sustaining thread.

(Manufactured from Polyamide 6.6 continuous filament, our robust bonded nylon sewing thread meets the highest specifications resulting in the best sewing performance even for multidirectional sewing. Available in a range of sizes and in a range of sizes and in around 100 shades at very keen prices.

Qualities include Polyester corespun , Polyester cotton corespun, Spun and bulk polyesters, Continuous filament polyesters (both bonded and unbonded), Continuous filament nylon, (both bonded and unbonded) High temperature Aramid threads (Kevlar and Nomex), Tenara threads, resistant to chemical or environmental attack, Monofilaments.)

All this is good especially in big industrial settings as it means the quality of thread is very good, however as a much smaller producer I have the ability to be a little more choosy about these things, so although I will use up what I have as this is the best way of being sustainable, using what is already in existence before making something new. When my threads need replacing I hope to go down the recycled thread route as this is now something available.

Rubber grip

I have spent quite a significant amount of time looking into this issue. Rubber is a natural product, however a lot is now in circulation and goes to landfill (think car tyres). There are a number of companies now offering ‘recycled soles’ and this is something I would also like to start using. 100% recycled rubber is not quite what is needed as it shrinks and loses it shape, but a recycled rubber and plastic combo is something that I am hoping to find and start using.

Remake/Reuse/finish up

Having worked predominantly on bespoke creations over my making career, I have built up a large collection of leathers and components that may have only been used for one project. This is wasteful and something I would like to change. So my hope it to also make small batches of items out of materials I already have, thus giving them purpose and being the most economical, not buying more and new but making wonderful things for what I have.